South West Coast Path – Porthmeor, Carrick Du and Clodgy Point
G was heading back to the Porthmeor Studios, for instruction in “oils with a palette knife” at the Porthmeor studios. These buildings on the northern side of St Ives, were originally fishermen’s net lofts, fish cellars and salt houses for curing the pilchards which for many centuries provided the towns’ main livelihood. Four cellars are still used by fishermen today. The others are occupied by artists, a tradition which started at the end of the nineteenth century when the railway brought many artists drawn by the famous quality of the light around Penwith. Porthmeor Beach has beautiful stretching sands, and is popular with surfers.
Leaving the artist behind my calling this morning was the coast path towards Zennor. St Ives was shrouded in mist, with a mystical air. Walking past Tate St Ives and the beach, the path is first paved and easy, giving tantilising views of St Ives through the haze. A couple of runners overtake me, but the path is pretty quiet just now.
I head up towards Clodgy Point, clodgy is apparently Cornish for leper, suggesting a site of a leper colony in the past! This promontory like many others in Cornwall has seen its share of shipwrecks.
This areas is part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest with a wide range of unusual wildlife and plants.
The path continues up to Burthallan Cliff climbing steadily. The landscape is markedly different to the coast path south of St Ives. After a night of heavy rains and thunderstorms, the ground is decidedly damp in places, due to the springs running down. However a stone causeway has been laid to help navigate through this landscape that feels remote and wild.
By the time I turn round to return the same route, the sun has started to break through the clouds. And some of the wildlife is less concerned about me and my camera, than the crows that keep trying to dive bomb it!
As I head back to St Ives, the views just get more and more stunning
A fantastic walk, and one I’d like to do all the way to Zennor some time. I’m not sure the camera can ever do it justice really and wonder how G has got in with his oil painting. A stroll back into St Ives for some shopping, crab sandwich and cup of tea. Nice.